Unsuitable: A History of Lesbian Fashion 

Eleanor Medhurst’s Unsuitable: A History of Lesbian Fashion is now available in its first paperback edition. If you’re interested in fashion and LGBTQ history, you’ll want to check this out. As a passionate queer fashion historian and PhD researcher at the University of Brighton, Eleanor Medhurst also leads the Dressing Dykes platform, working to bring often-ignored stories into the public eye. 

In Unsuitable: A History of Lesbian Fashion, you’ll encounter a variety of stories—the suffragettes of nineteenth-century Yorkshire to the drag kings of seventeenth-century Sweden, as well as present-day queer communities and the buzz of online culture. Eleanor connects the past and present in a way that makes these histories feel relevant today, whether she’s discussing the unique “she’s butch/femme” bar culture or current TikTok trends.

The idea for the book came to Eleanor while she was in her master’s program in History of Design and Material Culture at the University of Brighton. She noticed a significant lack of representation of lesbian history in mainstream fashion studies, which sparked her curiosity. Now, as she works on her doctoral research, she’s delving into the world of textiles and oral histories within British lesbian communities from 1963 to 2003.

Reflecting on her work, Eleanor notes: “Unsuitable: A History of Lesbian Fashion is the product of thoughts that first started forming during my master’s at the University of Brighton, when I noticed just how little was written about lesbians within fashion history.

“Clothes can tell us so much about the past – we all get dressed, and the way that we present ourselves is tied to our identities, communities, and social context. Lesbian fashion history is a way to learn about hidden or erased queer lives.

“It’s really important to me that research is accessible, which is why I post about my work online. I hope that the new paperback edition of Unsuitable will help the book reach more people who might resonate with and learn from the stories told within its pages.”

Eleanor is passionate about making her research accessible to everyone, and she’s excited that the new paperback edition of Unsuitable will connect with even more readers! She believes the stories inside can inspire and educate, and it’s wonderful to see that the book has already received great reviews. It even made it onto the longlist for the 2025 Bread and Roses Award for Radical Publishing! Plus, it has been spotlighted in major publications like Vogue and The Guardian, highlighting its significance in conversations about queer identity and cultural history.

Beyond her writing, Eleanor contributes to exhibitions such as Queer Looks and Queer the Pier at Brighton Museum. She regularly shares her insights on queer fashion history and LGBTQ+ representation in design. Her doctoral research also explores the role of handmade textile crafts in lesbian communities—think banners, knitted garments, and customised clothing—as powerful tools for activism and self-expression. By conducting oral history interviews and engaging in archival research, she aims to preserve stories that have often gone unrecognised.

Eleanor’s passion for including queer perspectives in design history shines through in her belief: “Design often embodies identity, fosters community, and creates a platform for political impact. It’s essential to acknowledge queer stories within this history, whether they relate to iconic symbols like the rainbow flag or more personal, context-driven designs.”

Unsuitable: A History of Lesbian Fashion will resonate with anyone interested in the intersections of fashion, identity, activism, and queer history. The book is a testament to the important contributions of researchers like Eleanor from the University of Brighton to broader cultural dialogues.

Don’t miss out on this compelling exploration of the vibrant stories that shape lesbian fashion history!

Unsuitable: A History of Lesbian Fashion is available now from Hurst Publishers.