★★★★ by Ifan Llewelyn
A corseted bear struts down the runway in a pair of heels, before being lifted up by half teddy half muscle bears, swung around and dropped in front of a strutting Conchita Wurst who runs on stage to take over the show. From the first few minutes, it’s clear that this journey into the mind of Jean Paul Gaultier is sure to be an assault on the senses. This stage show brings together memoir and spectacle in an explosive performance that really lights an urge to get strutting down a runway.
We begin our journey with a surgical incision into his mind, with a video depicting an operating room, though the latex gloves have been replaced with ones made of chiffon. Slowly the medical equipment it swapped out for a sewing kit and a few vials of glitter, and our patent emerges to be a teddy bear being fitted for a cone bra corset. Bursting from behind the screen comes a troupe of sassy teddy bears strutting their stuff, the ones that Gaultier had played with in his childhood. This is the springboard of our origin story, as the designer’s grandmother inspires a love for corsetry in him. What follows is a whistle-stop tour of his career authored, directed and set designed by Jean Paul Gaultier, from his first show to his ’19 spring contour show, all jam-packed full of costumes, choreo and bucketfuls of his character.
For those not as familiar with his body of work, this quick sketch biography is ideal carving out three key motifs. The first and most prominent is the Madonna cone bra, the second is the navy sailor stripes and the third is sex. Each has a constant presence in the show, lasting through his days in the underground sex clubs of London, to his visions into the future. Each chapter of his life incorporates them in elaborate couture clothes and stellar strutting.
Despite the show’s hyper-produced ethos, there are a few moments of tenderness. A contemporary dance piece on when the AIDS crisis hit is a standout piece in the show, expressively choreographed with each writhing muscle expressing the pain at withering away in the prime of your youth. Set to a downbeat rendition of “I’ve Got You Under My Skin”, it’s truly stirring in its subtle genius. Though not one to dwell in darkness, this tragic chapter erupts into an explosion of pride and the handing out of French condoms. Very Jean-Paul.
This production is a whole lot of fun, with a pumping soundtrack that’ll have you gyrating in your seat. It invites you in to celebrate the beauty of his work with him. Jean Paul himself only makes fleeting appearances, the most substantive of which is a rousing speech on why “everyone is beautiful”, followed the cast of athletic, gorgeous dancers didn’t quite seem to re-enforce that fact. Despite that, there’s a real joie de vivre driving this production that’s very hard to criticise.
Queen Elizabeth Hall, Southbank Centre, Southbank SE1 8XX. Running until 2nd August. Tickets available at SouthbankCentre.co.uk.
